Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving Traditions—A Heritage of Gratitude Part Two

Traditional American Thanksgiving commemorations are heir to influences contributed by early Pilgrim colonists and their Native American neighbors, as well as later European immigrant groups with their harvest feast customs. Longer growing seasons in North America led to later commemorations of harvest festivals, and today’s popular county and state fairs in late summer and fall continue this tradition of agrarian spectacle, revelry, and fellowship. Nineteenth century historian William DeLoss Love’s study of early America indicates that both the Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay colonists irregularly held days of fasting and humiliation as well as thanksgiving.

Colonial Williamsburg Lammas Wheat Harvest
(Seed stock provided by Palouse Heritage)
Ed Schultz Photograph

Love describes one of the first Plymouth references to a thanksgiving feast involving charity to the less fortunate on December 22, 1636 in Reverend John Lothrop’s congregation at Scituate. Such celebrations among the New England colonists do not appear to have become annual events until about the middle of the 17th century, and not until the 1660s is frequent reference found to gratitude for “the fruits of the earth.” Customary communal fare on such occasions included venison and fish, clams and oysters, squash and beans, and berry puddings and apple pie. While cranberries were also popular, consumption of any turkey at these early events apparently was incidental. 

President George Washington issued the first national Thanksgiving proclamation in 1789, the year of his inauguration. He designated the last Thursday in November “to be devoted by the people of these States to… the Beneficent Author of all the good that was, that is, or that will be.” This time was associated with the growing New England Thanksgiving tradition and observations of Christian Whitsuntide and the Jewish Feast of Ingathering (Sukkot, or Tabernacles). Some governors and denominations, however, objected to civil involvement in religious affairs so the day came to be celebrated according to regional preferences, or not at all.

One of the 19th century’s most tireless advocates for a true nationwide commemoration of Thanksgiving was longtime Ladies’ Magazine Boston editor Sarah Josepha Hale. Launching her crusade in 1827, Hale wrote hundreds of letters to public officials to further the cause, and in 1863 composed an influential editorial offering explicit association between Thanksgiving and Old Testament tradition: “Can we not then, following the appointment of Jehovah in the ‘Feast of Weeks,’ or Harvest Festival, establish our yearly Thanksgiving as a permanent American National Festival which shall be celebrated on the last Thursday in November in every State of the Union?”  Hale’s magazine provided a forum for many of era’s finest writers whose works, like these lines from Longfellow’s “Thanksgiving,” she featured to advance her abiding campaign.

Hale’s plea reached the White House, and on October 3, 1863 President Lincoln designated the last Thursday in November as an annual national observance of the holiday. (Since 1879, Thanksgiving in Canada has been celebrated on the second Monday in October.) Lincoln’s proclamation, issued in the midst of the Civil War, attests to his regard for sacred responsibilities: “The year that is drawing toward its close has been filled with the blessings of fruitful fields and healthful skies. To these bounties, which are so constantly enjoyed that we are prone to forget the source from which they come, others have been added, which are of so extraordinary nature that they cannot fail to penetrate and soften the heart which is habitually insensible to the ever watchful presence of almighty God.”

Many Thanksgiving hymns evoke agricultural images with spiritual significance, as with Henry Alford’s “Come Ye Faithful People, Come,” (1844) which remains one of the most popular of all such festival songs:

Come, ye faithful people, come
Raise the song of Harvest-Home.
Grant a harvest Lord, that we
Wholesome grain and pure may be.

By the late 19th century, many commemorations of Harvest-Home in America had become conflated with Thanksgiving in ways that still celebrated agrarian bounty and labor in the context of divine blessing. Genteel Harvest-Home “socials” were a regular feature of Northwest rural school programs well into the 1990s. (Harvest-Home also graced the nameplate of a full-rigged barque that regularly plied Puget Sound ports in the 1870s and ‘80s to load flour, lumber, and other cargo for California markets.)

Edwin Molander, Grain Sheaf Wall Panel (1949)
Trinity Lutheran Church, Endicott, Washington

American traditions of Thanksgiving have been influenced by an enriching cultural milieu including colonial New England commemorations, European Harvest-Home customs, and biblical observances of harvest feasts. Efforts in the early years of the republic and during the Civil War were designed to promote national unity through formal proclamation of the holiday, but aspects of the commemoration had long lived in the population’s experience, and in an array of other folk traditions later brought by immigrants hoping to find new opportunity for a safe and prosperous life. The Jewish Feast of the Harvest, Harvest-Home, and Thanksgiving are rooted in the descent, humble recognition that deliverance from want and tyranny is a hope common to all humanity, and finds its expression in prayers of thanks for the Creator’s blessings, and in the festive, inclusive fellowship of family, friends, and newcomers.

Thanksgiving Traditions—A Heritage of Gratitude Part One

You shall keep the Feast of Unleavened Bread…, and the Feast of Harvest, the firstfruits of your labors which you have sown in the field; and the Feast of the Ingathering at the end of the year, when you have gathered in your labors from the field. --Exodus 23:15-16

Harvests in, the weather cools, colorful leaves swirl about, and Thanksgiving’s approach turns thoughts to family gatherings, feasting, and football games. Growing up on our small farm in eastern Washington’s Palouse Country, our Thanksgiving was one of the few times we left home to journey a hundred miles north toward Canada to our maternal grandparents remote home in the thickly forested Pend Oreille highlands. To this day Grandma Peterson’s bread and pork dressing with grated carrots and beets lives on as a favorite holiday recipe. A very devout soul, she personified thanksgiving and shared the bounty of their substantial gardens—as well as hand-me-down children’s clothes, firewood, baked goods, and other necessities—with families near and far. Thanksgiving’s approach has led me to think again about the holiday’s origins in ancient times and its association with early American history.

Harvesting Palouse Heritage “Eden Amber” (2021)
An Heirloom Mesopotamian Hard White Bread Wheat

Old Testament Israel’s Feast of Harvest (Shavuot), one of nation’s three principal holidays, was a joyous event celebrated in Jerusalem on the fiftieth day after Passover. Blessed with favorable Mediterranean growing conditions on the Plain of Esdraelon and in nearby fertile valleys, the ancient Hebrews’ barley harvest generally commenced with the beginning of the dry season in April and early May, followed by the gathering of wheat and lentils into June. The fiftieth-day spring harvest festival, also known as the Feast of Weeks (later Christian Pentecost), marked the completion of the grain harvest season and commemorated divine provision for the people with Promised Land bounty.

The subsequent Feast of Ingathering was held in Jerusalem several weeks later to celebrate harvest of olives, grapes, figs, and other fruits. It also involved Temple offerings of sheaves, bread, and flour for the priests, recitation of the Hallel psalms (113-118) and readings from the Book of Ruth, joyful dances, and splendid communal feasts. Historians Douglas Neel and Joel Pugh note that activities associated with these holidays and the biblical context of their pronouncements offered two important themes to Jewish and later Christian observers: thanksgiving for divine blessing and a bountiful land, and the resulting social responsibilities to the less fortunate.  

Cultures throughout the world have commemorated the life-giving blessing of harvest throughout recorded history with traditions evident in religious ceremonies and stories handed down through the generations. According to Jewish folklore, Noah’s resourceful wife resorted to unique combinations of ingredients as the Ark’s provisions dwindled near the end of its voyage. What in Turkish cuisine is known as “Noah’s Pudding,” or ashura, customarily features various sweet mixtures of pearled barley and bulgur wheat with beans, chickpeas, dried fruits, and nuts. Nutritious black emmer has been called “Prophet’s Wheat” from a tradition suggesting Noah fed it to animals on the Ark. Black emmer was one of many Middle Eastern grains introduced to the Pacific Northwest in the 1890s by legendary USDA “plant explorer” Mark Carleton who sought varieties from regions throughout the world with climates and soil conditions similar to various areas of the Columbia Plateau. 

Contemporary Wheat Weavings
Fern Enos; Colfax, Washington

Traditions honoring the vitality of grain perpetuated the Old World craft of wheat-weaving with artfully twisted shapes are still featured at county fairs throughout America. Agrarian folklorist Rene Peschel traces the origins of Northwest wheat-weaving to the 1974 centennial commemoration of Mennonite immigration to Kansas from Russia. Midwestern Mennonite women wove mementoes with Russian “Turkey” Red wheat and the following year Moses Lake resident Phyllis Franz learned the skill from a Mennonite visitor the area and taught it to members of her fellowship and other friends. One of the most spectacular examples of the craft is the life-size “Wheat Lady” (1997) by Aileen Warren and Jackie Penner of Dayton, Washington. The pair wove a grain dress from 225 feet of wheat straw and embellished the effigy with over 900 hand-tied decorative knots and 2500 heads of wheat.

Aileen Warren and Jackie Penner, Wheat Lady “Corn Dolly” (1997)
Straight and braided straw with 2500 heads of wheat
Washington Association of Wheat Growers

Ethos Stone Mill and Barnard Griffin Winery Partner with Palouse Heritage for Tasting

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, Palouse Heritage partnered with Ethos Stone Mill and Barnard Griffin Winery for a festive evening of dining and fellowship to a capacity crowd this past week at the Richland winery. Moderated by our Ethos friends Angela and Hana, entries included flavorful pasta, stew, and other dishes made with our Purple Egyptian barley and Sonoran Gold wheat. Winery hosts Bob Griffin and Deborah Barnard added to the affair with fascinating commentary on Barnard Griffin Riesling, Merlot, port-style “Rapport,” and other wines from Red Mountain and other area vineyards that were deliciously paired with the servings.

Head Ethos baker Hana and founder Angela led guests on a culinary presentation on a variety of grains with participants tasting a colorful array crackers, breads, and other foods. (Angela is seen in the picture standing next to Seattle artist Jim Gerlitz’s Palouse Colony Farm harvest painting.) Using a “flavor wheel” more commonly associated with fine wines and coffees, guests completed a sensory chart that drew attention to each variety’s unique flavor profile. Sonoran drew praise for being the most “buttery” while Purple Egyptian registered indications of “nutty” and “chocolaty”!

Again this year Ethos Bakery & Stone Mill is offering an array of artisan breads and special baked foods for Thanksgiving for pickup up at the Keene Road location. Order early in person, online, or call (509) 942-8417.

Among our favorites are the homestyle brioche and baguette, crouton stuffing with sage and sausage, rustic Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, and seasonal cranberry sage & pumpkin seed sourdough bread. The pies—made with Palouse Heritage Sonoran Gold flour—are out of this world and include roasted pecan with a hint of bourbon, classic double-crusted apple with Granny Smith and Pink Lady, and of course spiced Winter Luxury pumpkin pie.

Our thanks to Angela, Hana, and the entire Ethos Bakery family and Barnard Griffin Winery.

Thanksgiving History and Wishes from Palouse Heritage

This week of gratitude for family, friends, and the earth’s bounty seems an appropriate time for us to commence The Palouse Commoner blog and newsletter. The ancient Greeks considered agriculture on of the “cooperative arts” (like medicine and education), because farming requires the “cooperation” of worker and land. Farming was not something to be done “to” to the earth, but “with” it, and in that spirit we are very grateful for the partnership of many others this past year at Palouse Colony Farm whose valued contributions have brought us to this point.

Traditional American Thanksgiving commemorations are heir to influences from early Pilgrim colonists and their Native American neighbors, as well as later European immigrant groups with their distinct harvest feast customs. Longer growing seasons in North America led to later commemorations of harvest festivals, and today’s popular county and state fairs in late summer and fall continue this tradition of agrarian spectacle, revelry, and fellowship.

President George Washington issued the first national Thanksgiving proclamation in 1789, the year of his inauguration. He designated the last Thursday in November “to be devoted by the people of these States to… the Beneficent Author of all the good that was, that is, or that will be.” This time was associated with the growing New England Thanksgiving tradition and observations of Christian Whitsuntide and the Jewish Feast of Ingathering (Sukkot, or Tabernacles). Some governors and denominations, however, objected to civil involvement in religious affairs so the day came to be celebrated according to regional preferences, or not at all.

One of the 19th century’s most tireless advocates for a true nationwide commemoration of Thanksgiving was longtime Ladies’ Magazine Boston editor Sarah Josepha Hale. Launching her crusade in 1827, Hale wrote hundreds of letters to public officials to further the cause, and in 1863 composed an influential editorial offering explicit association between Thanksgiving and Old Testament tradition: “Can we not then, following the appointment of Jehovah in the ‘Feast of Weeks,’ or Harvest Festival, establish our yearly Thanksgiving as a permanent American National Festival which shall be celebrated on the last Thursday in November in every State of the Union?”  Hale’s magazine provided a forum for many of era’s finest writers whose works, like these lines from Longfellow’s “Thanksgiving,” she featured to advance her abiding campaign:

“When first in ancient time, from Jubal’s tongue

The tuneful anthem filled the morning air,

To sacred hymnings and Elysian song

His music-breathing shell the minstrel woke.

Devotion breathed aloud from every chord:

The voice of praise was heard in every tone….”

Such language sounds rather excessive to our 21st century ears, but they seem to have helped turn the tide. Hale’s plea reached the White House, and on October 3, 1863 President Lincoln designated the last Thursday in November as an annual national observance of this special holiday. In honor of this rich historical tradition and Providence's blessings, we at Palouse Heritage would like to wish you and your family a very happy Thanksgiving!